There are many beautiful mountain drives in the American West and I have travelled many of them. If asked to pick my favorite, it would be the Beartooth Highway in Montana and Wyoming. The road spans 68 miles from Red Lodge, Montana, to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park. I have travelled this highway several times and it remains the most spectacular drive I have ever experienced. It is, in a word, breathtaking.
One of the most remarkable aspects of the Beartooth Highway is its elevation. At its highest point, it reaches over 10,000 feet, making it one of the highest paved roads in the country. The highway is known for its hairpin turns, steep climbs, and switchbacks that make for an exhilarating drive, but also offer unrivaled vistas at every turn.
As you leave Red Lodge, lower-level dense forests of lodgepole pine, Douglas fir, and aspens transition to subalpine fir, Engelmann spruce, and whitebark pine in the subalpine zone. When the road reaches the top of the plateau, it traverses an expansive treeless alpine zone filled with grasses, mosses, and tiny alpine wildflowers. Multiple overlooks along the route provide panoramic views of the surrounding Beartooth Plateau with its crystal-clear lakes, the Absaroka Range, and the distant mountains of Yellowstone. The ever-changing landscapes make each moment on the highway feel like a new adventure.
The route passes through an area that is home to bighorn sheep, mountain goats, elk, mule deer, moose, and even bears. These creatures are often seen from the highway, providing unforgettable wildlife viewing experiences. Birdwatchers may also enjoy spotting high-altitude species like mountain bluebirds or golden eagles. The combination of natural beauty and wildlife adds an extra layer of excitement to the journey, making it an ideal destination for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts
The Beartooth Highway is also a popular access point for outdoor recreation. Along the route are numerous opportunities for hiking, camping, fishing, and photography. One popular destination is the Top of the World, offering sweeping views of the Beartooth Plateau and the surrounding mountain ranges. Be aware that temperatures will be cooler by 3-5 degrees for every thousand feet in elevation gained during the drive. When you add in the possibility of a stiff breeze, you may want to bring a jacket with you, even in the middle of summer.
One of my most vivid memories of this highway occurred on a cool, crisp fall day. I couldn’t resist stopping to fish in one of the numerous roadside lakes. Standing on the shore and casting lures into the clear water, I initially had no luck. Being close to the road, I assumed the fish population had been depleted by this time of year. Finally, I was surprised by a solid strike. After landing the fish, I discovered it was a nice brook trout in full spawning colors, with vivid spotted sides, red fins, and a red underbelly. Its jaws were hooked, a characteristic called kype, which males exhibit at that time of year. I was in awe of the beauty of the fish. In reverence, I gently returned him to his home and watched him swim away. To this day, I remember him.
Due to high elevation, extreme winter weather conditions keep the Beartooth Highway closed most of the year. It is generally open from June to mid-September. The goal is to have the road open for travel by Memorial Day weekend each year, but the depth of the snowpack and weather conditions can delay the opening. If you plan to travel this road, first check with local sources for an up-to-date status. You can obtain this information by accessing the Montana Dept. of Transportation travel information website at http://www.mdt.mt.gov/travinfo or by calling the Red Lodge Visitor’s Center at 406-446-1718.
The Beartooth Highway is more than just a road; it’s an experience that embodies the rugged beauty and spirit of the American West. Whether you’re taking a leisurely drive, stopping to hike, or simply enjoying the wildlife and vistas, this scenic route offers an unforgettable journey through one of the most spectacular landscapes in the country. It is as close to a highway to heaven as you will ever find.